Since we really enjoy surfing, we thought it would be fun to let a surfer dude write about his life as a surfer. Josh Sellwood, born and raised in Australia. This is his story, enjoy!
My name is Josh and I am a 23 year old surfer dude living in Australia. I try to surf every day of the week the whole year round. I have been surfing for roughly 15 years and in that time I have owned 11 boards. The original plan was for me to write a few paragraphs on my life as a surfer, but it turns out it is harder to describe what surfing means to me then I previously thought. Surfing is more than just a sport or hobby, for me its my life, for as long as I can remember it is what I plan every weekend around soooo please forgive me if It sounds super cheesy, but talking about surfing is like talking about love, words cant describe the feeling of being so free.
Growing Up on the Sunshine Coast
I grew up on the sunshine coast, which is the south east coast of Australia and it is where some of the best waves in the world break. I have been fortunate to live roughly 100 meters from the beach for the past 15 years of my life so every morning I can walk down and check the waves. Even though that sounds amazing it is a little shit sometimes especially when the surf was absolutely pumping and I had to go to school, in saying that it made the end of the school day so much more exciting, counting down the hours until I could grab my board and hit the waves.
Most days I wouldn’t change clothes or eat food, just grab the skateboard and cruise down to the beach and we are lucky enough that for most of the year the sun will stay up until 6 or 7 pm so we can surf for a few solid hours before it gets dark.
Being in the ocean so often you really get to see some cool stuff, in my time I have seen heaps of dolphins, sting rays, sea snakes and turtles but on the rare occasion I have seen a few sharks, whales and a dugong! All of these within a few meters away. CRAZY!
I try to do a surf trip at least once or twice a year just driving down the coastline and surfing at all the best spots, these surf trips are the sickest fun because I just have my car packed with some clothes, a bit of food and a mattress, we drive until we see some good waves then surf as long as we like before moving to the next spot, usually just a day at each place. Most of the best surf spots are along the gold coast stretch. We usually stop at Broad Beach, Surfers Paradise, Burleigh Heads, Kirra, Snapper and Duranbah before we take the drive down to Byron Bay which is a totally amazing place to be. The whole town has this hippy surfer lifestyle just super relaxed playing music in the streets and loving the beach. It is no doubt my favorite place to surf I have had the greatest surf sessions there.
So there we go, my best attempt of a few paragraphs on my life as a surfer. I could talk forever about how amazing it is to stand up on the board and cruise with mother nature but the only way you will really know is to come down and give it a try!